Battery – Spark Plug – Coil/CDI – Digital Dash – HeadLights
Battery
The most common problem we see is the stock battery being less than adequate/losing charge/having no power at all. The simplest thing to do would be to re-buy the stock battery, but we recommend against it. You can also purchase this lead acid (not sealed) battery from Advance autoparts, but again, not the best solution. Some members have suggested the batteries below (lithium is out of stock, pleas elet me know if you have a good lithium alternative). If you have any feedback, please Contact Us so we can share the experience. Also remember that Amazon has some crappy battery return policies!
Many upgrades to the ignition system as possible to include spark plug, wires, boot, coil, all the way to a coil-less system with a custom mount.
Spark Plugs
To start, the immediate thing that should be done to this bike is a spark plug upgrade. I suggest the E3 (E336). Others swear by the NGK (D8EA). The idea here is that you don’t go to a resistor plug with a resistor style boot. If you are running a resistor plug, run a non-resistor style boot, and vice versa. Doing both will add extra strain on the CDI. The plugs below should be used in conjunction with the MSD boot. If you go to the boot, you’ll likely want to get the coil as the stock spark plug wire is often not long enough to use with the boot.
I personally run the NGK and MSD boot below along with upgraded coil and CDI.
***If you get the new MSD boot, you need a spark plug with a terminal cap (like the E3). The threads will not be pinched properly by the MSD boot. These terminal caps are usually interchangeable so I have a cap from an E3 on my NGK plug. Or you may have a spare plug with a terminal cap you can swipe
****I am now a big fan of the higher priced iridium NGK plug, also works in our bike. Again, if you get this plug it comes with a threaded top and no terminal cap, plan accordingly if you are using the MSD boot
Coil / Regulator
Next step would be an aftermarket Coil.
Some have had trouble with their voltage regulators, causing a random miss (don’t be confused with a bad carb tune that is a constant issue). This is a simple stock replacement. Top bolt lines up, bottom hole can be re-drilled or just a strong zip tie. Installation is under the gas tank.
Just a cosmetic electrical upgrade done by some riders. Cleans up the rear end of the bike:
Thanks to Tim S. & Kevin D. for the wiring details:
Digital Dash
Thanks to A1CustomWholesale for providing the TBR7 group with a coupon on Amazon. This should net you 10% off the digital dash, just use coupon code: 10WC7SJS at checkout. The digital dash upgrade is not completely plug and play (built for a hawk) but everything on it will work with the TBR7, see my notes below:
- Unplug the battery.. or at a minimum at least make sure your bike is off, don’t break something with a short!
- Remove headlight, side fairings, seat, and gas tank for easy access.
- Remove current dash, you will need to keep the nuts that attach it. Detach the mechanical speedometer
- Set your speedo on a bench next to your new digital speedo, using a dental pick, remove the pins on your new 9 pine connect, make the colors match the order they were in on the stock speedo
- *If you have a blue w/ white stripe wire at the headlight, you will need to separate the blue w/ white from the longer cable (the rest will travel to near the battery). I did this by slitting the sheath near the speedo and pulling the blue w/ white through
- *If you don’t have a blue w/ white, you can tap into the wire back at your cdi in later steps
- Once the 9 pin matches, you are done and will have power, neutral indicator, and speedo (this is a good time to plug in your new digital speedo cable) *I had a red w/ white cable left over, no negative effects*
- Next, run the longer 6 pin cable through the bike towards the battery (follow the other cables, use zipties to keep it secure)
- Detach the existing 6 pin connector under the seat area, it usually has one green and one white connector
- Unpin the stock wire connector using the same method as the 9 pin, with the exception of the green w/ red, this will be reused. The only difference in color will be that the brown w/ white will hook up to your yellow w/ white. Purple is unused (6th gear indicator)
- If you didn’t have blue w/ white at the headlight, you will need to tap into the cdi blue w/ white wire. Jaysso explains this well in his video.
- Remove your front axle bolt, just enough to remove the stock speedo, replace with digital speedo and run cable through holder, zip tie for safety!
- Switch your tire size, and change from Kilometers to Miles, adjust brightness, etc using the Programming instructions
Head Lights
A Decent headlight LED bulb (make sure you check it as some were burned out at shipment) that is a direct replacement for the TBR7. The TBR7 uses an h6m, while the TBR7-d uses and H4, so this bulb is not for the TBR7-d Model
Basically, if your headlight looks like this, buy this:
And the LED headlight for the TBR7-D model. This is the H4 bulb, so it will not fit a standard TBR7
A direct replacement for the blinker module, without the awful beeping.
Need a USB charger for the handlebars? if you’ve removed your choke cable, this screws in where the choke adjuster was on your handlebars. Otherwise just ziptie it somewhere.
Want a handlebar mounted USB? This unit works great, also comes with an inline fuse and has a usb C port along with the usb A port.
If any items are out of stock or you find broken links, please use the Contact page to let us know.